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I have had a several people ask me how much a custom garment costs. The truth is, it can be very difficult to estimate the price of a high-quality costume or article of clothing. However, there are some things which will increase or decrease both the cost, and the look, of a particular piece.
- Fabric: Often there are many options available with respect to fabric. Depending on the garment, you may be able to choose from natural fibers, such as 100% cotton, wool, or silk; or you may opt for a blend of natural and man made materials. There are different weights, such as cotton threads per inch. There are different weaves, different methods of adding patterns, different textures, and different widths available to work with. Fabric choice can affect the time it takes to complete a garment, as more delicate fabrics require more care, while fabrics which wrinkle easily require more pressing.
- Thread: Believe it or not, it is possible to "cheap up" on thread. I don't recommend it, but it is possible to save money on a project this way, if every penny counts.
- Trim:This includes everything from simple ribbons, to beaded fringe, to custom embroidery. There are trims available for as low as 50 cents a yard. I have seen some trims as expensive as $20.00 per yard, and I am sure there are those out there that are more than that. Decorative top stitching in a contrasting color can be a very inexpensive way to trim a costume without breaking a budget. But, if you have the money to spend, go for that gorgeous Celtic ribbon. It is worth it.
- Fasteners: Cloaks need clasps. Shirts need buttons (or laces). This is another place where you can choose to go simple, or custom.
- Labor: Many tailors/seamstresses charge by the hour. If possible, ask for an estimate of time, and ask how that time breaks down. A sewing project includes the following steps:
- Consultation - measurements are taken, fabric is discussed, as well as trims, costs, and so on.
- Fabric preparation - this is when the fabric is washed, dried and/or pressed if necessary to insure it will not shrink in the future.
- Pattern preparation - the commercial pattern (if used) is pressed, adjusted to fit, and cut. If no commercial pattern is used, then the measurements are used to design one.
- Cutting - this step often takes longer than non-sewers expect, as care must be taken to "measure twice, cut once." Once the fabric has been cut, if it is not the correct piece, it can be necessary to obtain more fabric to correct the problem. Plus, the job can be hard on the hands if one does not have the proper shears.
- Construction - sewing the garment together, confirming the fit along the way, pressing seams for a professional look, and finishing edges to extend garment life.
- Fittings - if the garment is to be particularly well-fitted, for example a bodice or jacket; or a special hemline is required because of an unusual body shape, there may be multiple fittings to make sure the garment is matching the body shape (and not just the measurements taken).
- Finishing - hems are done, a final pressing is made, and all the loose threads are snipped. If you are handy with a needle, and are willing to do this work yourself, you could ask for your garment unfinished, but this may not save you that much time.
Construction time can be divided into three basic types: machine stitching, pressing work, and hand stitching. There are some things which must be done by hand, and there are things which look better if done by hand, but can still have reasonable results by machine. Be sure to tell your seamstress which you prefer. So, with all this in mind, here are estimated prices for three different simple cloaks: Simple hooded cloak. Unlined (except for hood). Fabric is dark-gray faux-suede which was on sale for half-price. Clasp is two-inch metal leaf. $65 Lined, hooded cape. This has a larger circumferance at the hem than the previous one. The fabric is a dark purple velveteen, and it is lined with black satin. The clasp is a black satin frog closure. $110 "Jedi" cloak. Unlined, extra-large hood, sleeves. Fabric is a chocolate brown faux-suede, also on sale for half-price. Clasp is an extra-large hook-and-eye, special ordered for this garment. $125 |